Caulking tips & tricks: everything you need to know
2022-06-01
If you're someone who DIY and loves renovating your home (or even just if you're a homeowner), chances are that you've had a run-in or two (or ten) with caulking. There are so many reasons why you need to caulk different areas in your home and, honestly, it can all be a little overwhelming.
Well, you`re in luck today because we`re bringing it back to the basics with a super informative and detailed guide filled with our favorite caulking tips and tips. It`s basically everything you need to know about caulking all in one spot for you!
Choose the right caulk and dispenser based on the needs of the project (see above). Some things to consider include:
Removing the old caulk (as needed) and preparing the surfaces is very important for an effective caulk application and repair. To prep the surfaces, remove the old caulk with a retractable razor blade scraper.
For caulk joints in corners, such as where wall tile meets a tub, sink, or counter top, a caulk removal tool works great. Depending on the age of the caulk job and the location of the caulk bead, a putty knife or 5-in-1 tool can also be useful.
Use a shop vacuum to remove all debris from the joint and the surrounding area. Finally, clean the surfaces with a rag and rubbing alcohol. Porcelain or ceramic surfaces must be perfectly smooth, clean, and dry in order to accept new caulk.
Apply strips of blue painter's tape to mask off both surfaces at the point where you want the edge of the caulk bead to stop. Make sure the tape is straight, and use long sections of tape, not short pieces. The joint will look best if you tape to create a fairly thin joint, about 1/4 inch in total width. With uneven joints, the caulk bead may need to be wider, up to 3/8 inch.
Press down firmly along the inner edges of the tape. The goal is to seal these edges so caulk cannot seep beneath it. This can be done with your fingernail or a wooden craft stick.
Open the caulk tube by cutting the tip of the nozzle at a 45-degree angle, using a utility knife; insert a long, clean nail or wire into the nozzle to puncture the inner seal. Poke through the seal a few times to ensure a smooth flow of caulk. (Some caulk guns have a built-in sniper to clip the tip of the caulk tube, as well as a puncture wire to break the seal.)
Apply the caulk at a 45-degree angle between horizontal and perpendicular. Make sure to squeeze hard enough to force the caulk fully into the joint.
Draw the tip of the caulk tube along the length of the joint as you slowly squeeze the handle of the caulk gun, working at a speed that is slow and consistent. The smoother the initial application, the better the end results will be.
Wet your finger with either rubbing alcohol (for silicone caulk) or water (for latex caulk). Also, dampen a corner of a cloth rag with either water or alcohol, as appropriate. The alcohol or water will serve as a lubricant and thinning agent as you smooth the joint.
Using light pressure, smooth the caulk joint, working from one end to the other. As your finger becomes laden with excess caulk, wipe it off with the dampened rag and rewet your finger. Continue the smoothing process until the entire taped section you're working on is finished.
Inspect the joint, and if there are any gaps, apply a small amount of additional caulk and smooth it with your finger.
Immediately remove the blue painter's tape used to mask the joint. Remove the tape away slowly, and pull it away from the joint at an angle, not toward the joint. Take care not to allow wet caulk from the tape to get onto surrounding areas
Let the caulk cure fully, as directed by the manufacturer, before getting it wet or painting it. There is often a difference between the "dry time" before you can paint over caulk, and the "cure time" before the caulk can be subjected to water contact. Some latex caulks are ready to paint within 30 minutes, while silicone caulk may require several days of curing time before it should be subject to water contact.